CIPES 



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COLONIAL RECIPES FROM OLD 
VIRGINIA AND MARYLAND MANORS 



COLONIAL RECIPES 

FROM OLD VIRGINIA 
AND MARYLAND MANORS 



With Numerous Legends and 
Traditions Interwoven 



BY 

MAUDE A. BOMBERGER 



New York and Washington 

THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY 

1907 



FBRARY of CONFESS 
. Two Copies RticaiveO 

DEC 19 1907 

Copyrijcfci tn(ry 

CLASS A ^XXc. No. 

' COPY B. 



It 






Copyright, 1907, by 
MAUDE A. BOMBERGER 



TO 

My Mother 

Whose Housekeeping was in Keeping 

With Her House — 

Quaint and Old-fashioned 



INDEX TO RECIPES 

Beverages 
A Champagne Punch for Ladies (Mr. 0. H. W. 

Hunter), 86 
A Harvest Drink (Hampton), 54 
Catawaba Wine (Mr. O. H. W. Hunter), 85 
Cherry Bounce (Weldon), 101 
Mint Brandy (Hampton), 81 
Mint Julep (Weldon), 80 
Old Maryland Apple Toddy (Weldon), 98 
Quince Brandy (Mr. G. A. Davis), 86 
Tea Punch (Mr. O. H. W. Hunter), 86 

Bread and Pastry 
Batter Bread (Weldon), 95 
Bread Cake (Brandon), 32 
Breakfast Bread (Glen Ellen), 57 
Buns (Ravensworth), 27 
Fritters (Arlington), 27 
Graham Wafers (Shirley), 31 
Maryland Biscuits (Weldon), 94 
Muffin Loaf (Audley), 18 
Pastry (The Rocks), 41 
Potato Rolls (Weldon), 95 
Sally Lunn (Weldon), 96 
Southern Corn Bread (The Rocks), 40 
Thin Biscuits (Weldon), 94 



8 Index to Recipes 

Cake 
A Rich Black Cake (Mt. Vernon), 15 
Black Fruit Cake (Winston), 64 
Black Cake (The Rocks), 38 
Charlotte Polonaise Cake (Castle Howe), 75 
Ice Cream Cake (Weldon), 97 
Jumbles (Waverly), 59 
Pound Cake (Harewood), 20 
Robert E. Lee Cake (Buena Vista), 28 
Sand Tarts (Weldon), 99 
Soft Ginger Bread (Glen Ellen), 56 
Sponge Cake (Brandon), 32 
White Cake (Castle Howe), 75 
White Loaf Cake (The Rocks), 40 
Woodberry Cake (Weldon), 99 
Meats 

Boiled Turkey (Kingston Hall), 72 

Creamed Chicken (Shirley), 30 

Deviled Turkey (Kingston Hall), 71 

For Curing Hams (Belmont), 61 

Old Colonial Easter Ham (Weldon), 93 

Old Maryland Baked Ham (Weldon), 92 

Old Maryland Filling for Ham and Fowls (Weldon), 

93 
Pickled Boiled Fish (Kingston Hall), 71 
Pickled Oysters (Westover), 35 
Veal Terrapin (Weldon), 101 

Pickles 
Cantaloupe Pickle (Weldon), 100 



Index to Recipes 



Chow Chow (Harewood), 21 
German Pickle (Harewood), 20 

Puddings, Desserts, Etc. 
An Irish Potato Pudding (Winston), 65 
An Irish Potato Pudding (The Rocks), 38 
A Simple Potato Pudding (Hampton), 54 
Blackberry Pudding (Glen Ellen), 56 
Brown Betty (Weldon), 102 
Charlotte Russe (Winston), 66 
Cream Mints (Weldon), 83 
Genuine Old English Plum Pudding (Castle Howe, 

Randolph Family), 73 
Gherkin Preserves for Dessert (The Rocks), 41 
Hamburg Cream (Blakeley), 22 
Mincemeat for Pies (The Rocks), 40 
Rice Flour Pudding (Waverly), 59 
Tipsy Pudding (Weldon), 96 

Sauces and Jellies 
Lettuce Dressing (Belmont), 62 
Mint Jelly for Lamb (Weldon), 82 
Mint Sauce for Lamb (Weldon), 82 
Spiced Currants (Oak Hill), 43 

Soups 
Brown Soup (Glen Ellen), 57 
Chicken Soup (Kingston Hall), 70 
Tomato Soup (Weldon), 97 
Vegetable Soup (Kingston Hall), 69 



INDEX TO MANORS 



Arlington, 25-28 
Audley, 16-18 
Belmont, 60-62 
Blakeley, 20, 22 
Blenden, 55 
Boonesborough, 87-89 
Brandon, 32 
Buena Vista, 16, 35 
Castle Howe, 73-77 
Doughoregan Manor, 69 
Glen Ellen, 55-57 
Hampton, 51-54 
Harewood, 19-24 
Kenmore, 16 



Kingston Hall, 67-72 
Mt. Vernon, 13-15 
Oak Hill, 42-44 
Ravensworth, 26, 27 
Ringgold Manor, 13, 14 
Shirley, 29-31 
The Cottage, 42 
The Rocks, 36-41 
Waverly, 58 
Weldon, 90-102 
Westover, 34-35 
White House, 26 
Williams' Port, 84-86 
Winston, 63-66 



PART I 
VIRGINIA 



" / wish I was in the land of cotton, 
Old times dar am not forgotten, 
Look away! Look away! Look aiuay, 
Dixi Land." 



MOUNT VERNON 

Mount Vernon — the home of Washing-ton 
— why, the world knows it by heart, and how 
we all love to catch a breath of it at times ! 
This time it is a savory breath, for, through 
the kindness of Mrs. Henry Onderdonk, of 
Ringgold Manor, we have a famous old recipe 
from Mount Vernon. The " Recipe for a 
Rich Black Cake " is so suggestive of a Co- 
lonial wedding in the South that we can al- 
most see the wide old kitchen at Mount 
Vernon, with its brick floor, and the gracious 
" Lady Washington," as she was called in 
those days, her Recipe Book in hand, giving 
orders to her faithful servants for the won- 
derful preparations going forward, prepara- 
tions for the wedding of her granddaughter, 
Nellie Custis, to Major Lawrence Lewis, the 
favorite nephew of the General. This wed- 
ding was solemnized in the drawing-room at 
Mount Vernon on February 22, 1799, the last 
birthday that Washington spent on earth. It 
was a brilliant occasion, and General Wash- 



14 Mount Vernon 

ington himself gave the bride away. This 
famous old recipe was an inheritance to Mrs. 
Onderdonk from her great-grandmother, Mrs. 
Hazelhurst, of Philadelphia, to whom it was 
given by Mrs. Washington herself. General 
and Mrs. Washington were at that time liv- 
ing in Philadelphia, for General Washington 
was filling the office of President of the United 
States. Mrs. Washington and Mrs. Hazel- 
hurst were devoted friends, and, after the 
death of General and Mrs. Washington, Mrs. 
Lawrence Lewis gave to Mrs. Hazelhurst, as 
a little memento of her grandmother, a china 
sugarbowl which had been used daily at 
Mount Vernon by General and Mrs. Wash- 
ington, and which is now numbered by Mrs. 
Onderdonk, of Ringgold Manor, among her 
Colonial heirlooms. And not less precious to 
her is the little recipe from Mount Vernon — 
such a homely, human little thing. Yet the 
magnificent silver cake basket and the Peale 
miniature of her great-grandmother, Mrs. 
Hazelhurst, which were buried during the 
Revolutionary War to insure their safety, are 
not more sacred to her than this little recipe. 
Before her marriage Mrs. Onderdonk was 



Mount Vernon 15 

the beautiful and accomplished Miss Mary 
Latrobe of Baltimore, the daughter of Mr. 
Benjamin H. Latrobe, the great engineer, and 
granddaughter of Mr. Benjamin H. Latrobe, 
the famous architect and engineer, who was 
the first architect of the Capitol building at 
Washington, and other noted buildings. This 
is the famous recipe : 

TO MAKE A RICH BLACK CAKE 

{Mount Vernon) 

Take 20 eggs; divide the whites from the 
yolks, and beat the whites to a froth. Then 
work 2 pounds of butter to a cream, put the 
whites of eggs to it, a spoonful at a time, 
until well mixed. Then put 2 pounds of sugar, 
finely powdered, in it in the same manner. 
Then add the yolks of eggs, well beaten, 2.\ 
pounds of flour, and 5 pounds of fruit. Add 
to this \ ounce of mace, a nutmeg, \ pint of 
wine, and some French brandy. Five and one- 
quarter hours will bake it. 

Mrs. Washington, 

Mount Vernon. 



AUDLEY 

Nellie Custis — what a household name it is 
in Old Virginia! Through the kindness of 
her great-granddaughter, Miss Marie Stewart 
Lewis, of " Buena Vista," a famous old recipe 
belonging to her grandmother, Mrs. Lorenzo 
Lewis, is given. Mrs. Lorenzo Lewis was the 
daughter-in-law of Nellie Custis, Miss Marie 
Stewart Lewis is of distinguished Virginia an- 
cestry. Her father, Colonel John Redmon Coxe 
Lewis, was the son of Lorenzo Lewis and 
Esther Maria Coxe Lewis, who, as Miss 
Esther Coxe of Philadelphia, was a recognized 
belle of her day. She was descended from 
John Redmon Coxe, who was one of the com- 
mittee appointed by Queen Elizabeth to revise 
the Episcopal Prayer-Book. Lorenzo Lewis 
was the son of Nellie Custis and Major Law- 
rence Lewis, who was the son of Colonel 
Fielding Lewis and Bettie Washington of 
Kenmore, who was the sister of General 
Washington. 

Colonel Lewis had many pleasant memories 
16 



Audley 17 

of his distinguished grandmother, beautiful 
Nellie Custis. Among them was one that he 
often told, one that reads like a little poem; 
how she kept a little trundlebed under her 
bed, when he was a little boy, and she would 
pull it out herself and tuck him in it whenever 
he got sleepy. And when Nellie Custis fell 
asleep for the last time at Audley, the old 
Lewis home, which was a perfect treasure 
trove of Washington heirlooms from Mount 
Vernon, where there are traditions attached 
to every corner, it was this favorite grandson, 
Colonel John Redmon Coxe Lewis, who car- 
ried her body to Mount Vernon to rest among 
kindred dust in that hallowed spot. 

Colonel John Redmon Coxe Lewis was an 
officer in the old navy, and was with Commo- 
dore Perry when he opened the Port of Japan, 
but when war was declared between the 
States he resigned from the navy, and became 
an officer in the Confederate Army, where he 
served with distinction throughout the war. 
Colonel Lewis married Miss Maria Byrd Free- 
land of Richmond, who was a toast and belle 
of that city before the war. In " A Diary 
from Dixie," Mrs. Chestnut's fragrant little 



1 8 Audley 

book of those rose-and-lavender-scented days, 
we read much of this famous belle. Among 
other things there is a description of her wed- 
ding - , which was a brilliant event. 

MUFFIN LOAF 

{Audley) 

Four eggs ; beat whites and yolks sepa- 
rately; i large spoonful of butter rubbed into 
i quart of flour; \ pint yeast, i cup of warm 
milk. Set to rise at 12 o'clock M. for tea. 
Mrs. Lorenzo Lewis, 

(Who married the son of Nellie Custis and 
Lawrence Lewis, nephew of Washington.) 



HAREWOOD 

Colonel Samuel Washington, the eldest full 
brother of General George Washington, built 
the homestead of Harewood, which is said to 
have been modeled after an old Washington 
mansion in England. He died at the age of 
47, having been married five times. His vari- 
ous wives were Jane Champe, Mildred Thorn- 
ton, Lucy Chapman, Annie Steptoe, and 
Suzannah Perrine. 

General George Steptoe Washington, son 
of the fourth Mrs. Washington, was one of 
the five nephews whom General Washington 
named as his executors and to whom he left 
his swords. He married Lucy Payne, a sister 
of the beautiful Dolly Madison. 

Harewood has sheltered many illustrious 
guests, among them the Marquis de Lafay- 
ette and James Madison, and it was in this 
stately old mansion that Dolly Payne became 
the wife of James Madison, Father of the Con- 
stitution, and twice President of the United 
States. 

The Colonial mantelpiece in the drawing- 
19 



20 Harewood 

room at Harewood was a gift to the Washing- 
ton family from Lafayette. 

Through the courtesy of Miss Christine 
Washington, of Harewood, the great-great- 
granddaughter of Colonel Samuel Washing- 
ton, these favorite old recipes from Harewood 
and also from Blakeley are given. 

POUND CAKE 

{Harewood) 
One pound of butter rubbed until it is soft 
as cream, i pound of flower sifted, I pound of 
powdered sugar, 10 eggs well beaten sepa- 
rately. Put alternately into the butter, sugar, 
flour, and the whites of the eggs. Beat all 
well together. Flavor with lemon, nutmeg, 
and a tablespoon of French brandy. 

GERMAN PICKLE 

(Harewood) 

To 7 pounds of fruit of any kind put 3 
pounds of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, % ounce 
of mace. Make a syrup by boiling the sugar, 
spice, and vinegar together. Pour it over the 
fruit and let it stand 2 days; the third day 
scald the fruit and sugar together. 



Harewood 21 

CHOW CHOW 

{Harewood) 

One-half peck tomatoes, 2 large heads 
of cabbage, 15 onions, 25 cucumbers, 1 pint 
of grated horseradish, \ pound of mustard 
seed, little onions (left whole), \ teaspoon of 
ground pepper, 1 teaspoon of tumeric, 1 tea- 
spoon of ground cinnamon. Cut the cucum- 
bers, onions, and cabbage in pieces and pack 
down with salt over night. In the morning 
drain them and put them to soak in vinegar 
and water for a day or two. Drain again and 
mix with the spices and put on the fire with 
3 pounds of sugar and enough vinegar to 
cover the whole. After it is cold mix \ pound 
of ground mustard with \ pint of salad oil 
and mix it well with the pickle. 

SHE WAS A BEAUTY 

Rondel 

She was a beauty in the days 
When Madison was President; 
And quite coquettish in her ways — 
On conquests of the heart intent. 
Grandpapa, on his right knee bent, 
Wooed her in stiff, old-fashioned phrase — 
She was a beauty in the days 
When Madison was President. 



22 Harewood 

And when your roses where hers went 
Shall go, my Rose, who dates from Hayes, 
I hope you'll wear her sweet content 
Of whom tradition lightly says : 
She was a beauty in the days 
When Madison was President. 

— H. C. Bunner. 



HAMBURG CREAM 

{A favorite dessert at Blakeley) 

Five eggs, i lemon, \ pound sugar. Mix 
the juice and grated rind of the lemon with 
the sugar and yolks of the eggs. As soon as 
it comes to a boil stir the whites of the eggs 
well beaten in and take quickly from the fire 
and serve in glasses. 

Miss Christine Washington, 

Harewood. 

THE LEGEND OF ST. GEORGE^ CHAPEL 

Several miles from Harewood are the old 
ruins of St. George's Chapel, around which is 
woven a most interesting legend of Alverder 
the Beautiful. Surrounding the ruins is an 
old graveyard, and on one of the graves rests 
an old-fashioned marble slab. It is weather- 
beaten and winter-scarred, save at the bottom, 



Harewood 23 

where it is worn white as if by the constant 
kneeling of someone upon it. From this grave 
a little foot-path — it has such a human look 
about it! — leads to where there was at one 
time a gate or stile. 

Tradition tells that there was in those early 
Colonial days a beautiful maiden named Al- 
verder, who was a member of old St. George's 
Chapel. Her portraits, still hanging upon the 
walls of some of the old mansions, show her 
to be of exquisite loveliness. And of course 
her lovers were legion. Among them there 
were two who seemed to be favored, but the 
girl was unable to decide between them, until 
one Sunday when they both appeared at her 
home to escort her to service at St. George's 
Chapel. One rode a beautiful white horse, 
leading another just like it, on which was a 
sidesaddle. The other suitor came in a hand- 
some vehicle, driving two dashing bays. Al- 
verder came out on the piazza dressed in a 
riding habit. She dismissed the other, and 
rode to church with the man of her choice. 
That evening at four o'clock a duel was 
fought by the lovers in the old churchyard, 
in which the accepted lover was mortally 



24 



Harewood 



wounded. He died shortly afterward. His 
rival disappeared, and it is said he died in a 
foreign land. 

The morning after the duel Alverder came 
to the chapel and knelt beside her dead lover, 
after which she disappeared and was never 
seen again. The young man was buried near 
the spot where he fell and a marble slab was 
placed over his grave. It is said that every 
evening at dusk a woman in black is seen 
walking up the lane which once led to the 
churchyard, and a narrow path is worn 
across it to the grave of her unfortunate lover, 
where she kneels and weeps over the marble 
slab. 



ARLINGTON 

Arlington, the home of the Custises and 
Lees, is another grand old home that the world 
knows by heart. It was here that Robert Ed- 
ward Lee wooed and won the beautiful Mary 
Custis, daughter of Washington Parke Custis, 
and it was here in 1831 in this stately old 
mansion that they plighted their troth, the 
ceremony being performed by the Rev. 
William Meade, afterward Bishop of Vir- 
ginia. A little story about this wedding is 
still told by the members of the Lee family. 
The Rev. Mr. Meade was caught in a severe 
thunder storm when he was on his way to the 
wedding and was completely drenched with 
the rain. He had to borrow clothing from 
Mr. Custis, and as the latter was short and 
stout and the clergyman tall and thin, his ap- 
pearance was very amusing. He was forced 
to wear his surplice all the evening to hide 
the misfit of his garments. 

Now, it was not the custom in those days 
to take a wedding journey, and after the wed- 

25 



26 Arlington 

ding the guests all remained for a week-end 
party. And it is told that every night at the 
hour of retiring the servants brought in a 
brimming punch-bowl, an heirloom in the 
Custis family, it having been given to General 
Washington by Colonel Fitzhugh, a former 
aide-de-camp. Inside of the bowl was painted 
a ship with the hull resting in the bottom ; and 
it was the rule of the house to drink down to 
the hull of the ship. 

But these days are gone, and the light has 
gone out of Arlington, yet it is sweet to think 
of its master as a radiant angel beyond the 
stars. 

Through the kindness of Mrs. Mary Tabb 
Lee of Ravensworth, we have these old recipes 
from Arlington and from Ravensworth. Mrs. 
Lee is the widow of General W. H. F. Lee, 
known during the war as " Rooney " Lee, who 
was the second son of General Robert E. Lee. 
He was born at Arlington in 1837, ar, d 
served in the Civil War in every grade from 
captain to major-general. After the war, 
General Lee settled down as a planter on the 
old Custis estate, " White House," which was 
the scene of George Washington's marriage to 
Mrs. Custis. He afterward made Ravens- 



Arlington 27 

worth his home, a place noted for its wonder- 
ful beauty. It was the old Colonial manor of 
the Fitzhughs. Mrs. Lee was before her mar- 
riage Miss Mary Tabb Boiling, and she still 
lives at Ravensworth. 

These are the old Lee recipes: 

FRITTERS 

{Arlington) 

Make up 1 quart of flour with 1 egg well 
beaten; a large spoonful of yeast, and as 
much milk as will make it a little softer than 
muffin dough. Mix it early in the evening. 
In the morning, when well risen, work in 2 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Make into 
balls the size of a walnut and fry a light brown 
in boiling lard. Serve with wine and sugar 
or molasses. 

BUNS 

(Ravensworth) 

Make up at night, 1 quart of flour, 1 cup 
of yeast, and a piece of lard the size of an 
egg. Set to rise. In the morning add 4 eggs 
well beaten, a large spoonful of butter, and 
enough flour so you can work it; then set to 



28 Arlington 

rise again. When light make out into round 
rolls or buns and let stand in pan to rise again ; 
then bake. When nearly done brush the tops 
with white of an egg and sprinkle sugar on 
thin. Mrs. Mary Tabb Lee. 

The following is not a Colonial recipe, but 
it seems most fitting that it should be placed 
here, and especially so as it is given by Mrs. 
John Redmon Coxe Lewis of " Buena Vista," 
who was a cousin of General Robert E. Lee, 
and her husband, Colonel Lewis, was a first 
cousin of Mary Custis, wife of General Lee. 

ROBERT E. LEE CAKE 

(Buena Vista) 
Ten eggs, the weight of 10 eggs in sugar, 
half the weight in flour, the juice of one 
lemon. Make like sponge-cake, bake like 
jelly-cake. 

FILLING FOR CAKE 

To 2 pounds of pulverized sugar add the 
juice of 5 oranges and the peel grated of 3. 
The juice of 3 lemons. This must not be 
spread upon the cake until cold. This quan- 
tity will make 2 cakes and 3 layers in each. 
Mrs. John Redmon Coxe Lewis. 



SHIRLEY 

Shirley, the home of the Carters on the 
James River, was built in 1642, and has been 
described as a palace. Robert Carter, called 
" King " Carter from his enormous grants of 
land from the Crown, wielded enormous 
power, and the old chronicles tell us that the 
homage received by him was like that ac- 
corded royalty. On Sunday the congregation 
in the country church did not enter until after 
the arrival of the Carter coach, when all fol- 
lowed Mr. and Mrs. Carter into the building, 
one-quarter of which was reserved for the 
Carters and their dependents. " King " Car- 
ter is buried near this little church which he 
himself built to the glory of God, and on the 
slab that marks his grave we read, " Here Lies 
1 King ' Carter and his Seven Wives." 

Shirley has sheltered many distinguished 
guests, among them were Lafayette, the Mar- 
quis of Lome, and William Makepeace 
Thackeray. 

And it was a Carter of Shirley who gave to 
the South its Lee : for General Henry Lee, 
29 



30 Shirley 

known as " Light Horse Harry," of Revolu- 
tionary fame, married Anne Hill Carter, of 
Shirley, and their youngest son was Robert 
Edward Lee. 

Through the kindness of Mrs. Charles Reid 
of Baltimore, who was before her marriage 
the beautiful Donna Carter of Shirley, the 
daughter of Captain William Fitzhugh Carter 
of the old Navy, the following old recipe from 
Shirley is given : 

CREAMED CHICKEN 

{Shirley) 

One pound cold chicken or turkey. Cut as 
for salad; 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 ounces butter 
rubbed in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Cover 
the chicken with milk, say 1 pint; and let it 
get hot. Stir in the butter and flour, salt, red 
and black pepper, and 1 glass of sherry. 
When ready to serve stir in the eggs chopped 
fine and serve at once, very hot. 

SHIRLEY 

Through the kindness of Mrs. Bransford, 
the present owner of Shirley, the following 



Shirley 31 

old recipes from Shirley and Brandon are 
given : 

Before her marriage Mrs. Bransford was 
the beautiful Alice Carter of Shirley, and the 
daughter of Robert Carter of Shirley, who, 
being the oldest son, inherited the grand old 
place. 

Robert Carter was an officer in the old 
Navy, and he married Miss Humphreys of 
Annapolis. Two beautiful daughters blessed 
this marriage, Alice and Marion. The latter 
married Mr. John Oliver of Georgia, an officer 
in the Navy, and Alice married Mr. Brans- 
ford. The wedding was solemnized at Shir- 
ley, and was a large, old-fashioned one lasting 
a week, and there are still those living to whom 
it is a dear memory. 

GRAHAM MUFFINS 

{Shirley) 

Two cups graham flour, 1 cup white flour, 
3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1 cup butter, 
1 teaspoonful sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, milk 
to make a soft batter, 2 eggs. 

Mrs. Bransford, 

Shirley. 



BRANDON 

SPONGE CAKE 

(Brandon) 

Ten eggs, weight of them in sugar, weight 
of 5 of them in flour, juice and rind of one 
lemon. Beat eggs separately, then mix, add- 
ing sugar and flour, lastly the lemon. 

Through the courtesy of Mrs. Gulie Har- 
rison, wife of Mr. George Harrison of Bran- 
don, and present mistress of the stately old 
home of the Harrisons on the James River, 
this famous old recipe from Brandon is given. 
Mrs. Harrison says she has seen it only at 
Brandon, although it is possible others may 
have it. 

BREAD CAKE 

(Brandon) 

One and one-half pounds of flour, i pound 
sugar, 9 ounces butter, 3 gills of milk, \ pint 
yeast, 4 eggs. Work the butter and sugar to- 
32 



Brandon 33 

gether, put the yeast in the flour and -J the 
butter and sugar and also the milk, and beat 
it all some time. Set it where it will rise 
over night. In the morning if well risen add 
the rest of the butter and sugar and the eggs 
well beaten. Some desire currants, raisins, 
and a little nutmeg or mace. Beat all well 
together, then set to rise again. It must be 
very light when you put it in to bake. 

Mrs. Gulie Harrison. 



WESTOVER 

Westover was built by Colonel William 
Byrd, who has been described as a " Vir- 
ginian of Virginians, and the perfect flower of 
his day." It is recorded that his plantation 
was a veritable principality, and he lived on 
it in lordly style. The old place is steeped in 
legends, traditions, and memories of his 
daughter Evelyn, who was a famous beauty 
and made a great stir in London, where she 
was presented at the Court of George I. It 
is said that a fan she used on this occasion is 
still preserved at Brandon, also some of her 
gowns, and several magnificent portraits of 
her, painted by Sir Peter Lely and Sir God- 
frey Kneller. It is recorded that while in 
London courtiers and cavaliers combined to 
pay her court, and an attachment sprang up 
between her and a Roman Catholic nobleman. 
But her father, a staunch adherent to the 
Church of England, refused his consent to 
their marriage, and they parted forever, the 
beautiful Evelyn finally dying of a broken 
heart on November 13, 1737. She was buried 
34 



Westover 35 

in the little churchyard on almost the same 
spot where she had bidden her lover farewell. 
Her grave is marked with a marble slab on 
which is a lengthy inscription characteristic of 
the time in which she lived. Through the 
kindness of Mrs. Maria Byrd Freeland Lewis 
of " Buena Vista," wife of Colonel John Red- 
mon Coxe Lewis, a recipe belonging to her 
great-aunt, Miss Nancy Byrd of Westover, is 
given. Miss Nancy Byrd was the grand- 
daughter of Colonel William Byrd of West- 
over, and a niece of Evelyn Byrd of Westover. 

PICKLED OYSTERS^ 

( Westover) 
Take from a gallon of oysters all the liquor 
except enough to keep them from burning. 
Put on with a little spoonful of mace (the 
blades) and a little spoonful of white pepper 
(whole). The powdered does not look as 
well. Let them stew until they begin to 
plump. Then take them off. Let them get 
cold. Add vinegar to your taste. If there 
should not be enough liquor add some before 
putting in the vinegar. 

Miss Nancy Byrd, 

Westover. 



THE ROCKS 

Two centuries ago The Rocks was built 
by Lord and Lady Wormsley of England, and 
they were buried on the estate. The Lewis 
family have lived here for generations, and 
their old Colonial recipes are famous. 
Through the kindness of Miss Anne Payne 
Lewis of The Rocks, some of these old Lewis 
recipes are given. 

Miss Lewis is of distinguished ancestry. 
She is the great-great-granddaughter of 
Colonel George Muse, the man who taught 
General Washington military tactics, so tradi- 
tion says. His son, Battaile Muse, attended to 
General Washington's business in the coun- 
ties of Berkeley, Fauquier, and Loudoun, Gen- 
eral Washington having given to him a power 
of attorney to act as his agent. He also at- 
tended to the business of Lord Fairfax and 
occasionally to that of General Daniel Mor- 
gan of Revolutionary fame. 

The Lewis family of The Rocks have in 
36 



The Rocks 37 

their garret an old chest filled with letters 
from Washing-ton, Fairfax. Morgan, .and 
their contemporaries which are most interest- 
ing. Mary, the daughter of Battaile Muse, 
married Dr. John Lewis of The Rocks, who 
was the father of Major William Lewis of 
Stonewall Jackson's staff. Major Lewis mar- 
ried Belle Greene of Falmouth, and Anne 
Payne Lewis is their daughter. Mrs. Lewis 
was the first cousin of General Turner Ashby, 
a gallant officer in the Confederate Army, and 
she was also the great-great-granddaughter 
of General William Payne, who was a 
warm friend of General Washington. 

It is a historical fact that General Washing- 
ton and General Payne had a dispute one day 
in which both gentlemen lost their temper, 
and General Payne knocked General Wash- 
ington down. The next day General Wash- 
ington sent General Payne his apology for 
what he had said to offend him on the previ- 
ous day, and the messenger arrived just as 
General Payne was getting ready to send his 
apology to General Washington, so the matter 
was amicably settled. 



38 The Rocks 

BLACK CAKE 

(The Rocks) 

Five eggs, 1 pint flour, ^ pound butter, -| 
pound sugar, \ pint molasses, 1 teaspoonful of 
saleratus dissolved in \ pint of sour cream; 4 
teaspoonfuls of ginger, 1 teaspoonful each of 
cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and add raisins or 
currants if you like. 

Mrs. Mary Muse Lewis. 

irish potato pudding 

(The Rocks) 

Take the yolks of 7 eggs, 8 ounces sugar, 
12 medium-sized potatoes; beat sugar and 
eggs well together, add 7 ounces butter and 
the juice and rind of an orange. Mix all well 
together and bake in pans lined with pastry. 
Seasoning may be wine and nutmeg instead 
of orange. 

Mrs. Duff Greene and 
Mrs. W. H. F. Lewis, 

The Rocks 



The Rocks 39 



WHEN DE CO'N PONE'S HOT 

il Dey is times in life when Nature 

Seems to slip a cog an' go, 
Jes a-rattlin' down creation, 

Lak an ocean's overflow ; 
When de worl' jes stahts a-spinnin' 

Lak a pickaninny's top, 
An' yo' cup o' joy is brimmin' 

Twell it seems about to slop. 
An' you feel jes lak a racah 

Dat is trainin' fu' to trot — 
When yo' mammy ses de blessin' 

An' de co'n pone's hot." 

" I have heerd o' lots o' sermons, 

An' I've heerd o' lots o' prayers, 
An' I've listened to some singin' 

Dat has tuk me up de stairs 
Of de Glory-Lan' an' set me 

Jes' below de Mahster's th'one, 
An' have lef my hawt a-singin' 

In a happy aftah tone; 
But dem wu'ds so sweetly murmured 

Seem to tech de softes' spot, 
When my mammy ses de blessin' 

An' de co'n pone's hot." 



4-0 The Rocks 

SOUTHERN CORN BREAD 

(The Rocks) 

One-half pint corn meal (white), § cup of 
sweet milk, § cup sour milk, i teaspoonful 
•soda, 3 eggs, a piece of lard one-half the size 
of an egg ; melt the lard ; beat the eggs very 
light before using. Bake in pans. 

Mrs. Mary Muse Lewis, 

The Rocks. 

WHITE LOAF CAKE 

(The Rocks) 

Whites of 8 eggs, 3 cups flour, 1 cup corn 
starch, 2\ cups sugar, 1 cup sour milk, 1 cup 
butter, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 2 teaspoonfuls 
of cream of tartar. 

MINCEMEAT 

{The Rocks) 

One pound beef, 2 pounds suet, 4 pounds 
sugar (brown if you can get it), 2 pounds 
currants, 3 pounds raisins, \ pound citron, \ 
pound dates and figs, 1 ounce mace, 1 ounce 
cloves, 3 pounds chopped apples. Boil beef 



The Rocks 41 

and cut fine, chop suet, mix all together, and 
mix with French brandy, adding - wine when 
ready to use. 

Miss Anne Payne Lewis, 
« The Rocks. 

GHERKIN PRESERVES FOR DESSERT 

(The Rocks) 

Pick tender gherkins (burr cucumbers) and 
soak for 2 months in salt brine that bears an 
egg] then soak 4 days in water, pouring this 
off every day and pouring scalding water on 
them; then soak in alum water a day; then 
wash well. Green them in a copper kettle and 
take out the seeds. Preserve like other fruit, 
1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of gherkins, add- 
ing lemons cut up. and mace. Serve with 
cream for dessert. 

Miss Anne Payne Lewis. 

pastry 

(The Rocks) 

Ten ounces flour, 6 ounces butter. Mix 
with ice water with a silver knife and fork. 
Roll out on a marble slab. 

Miss Anne Payne Lewis. 



OAK HILL 

At Oak Hill, the stately old home of Chief 
Justice Marshall in Fauquier County, life was 
most abundant, and lavish hospitality was 
dispensed at all times by the genial Judge and 
his beautiful wife, who was before her mar- 
riage the sweet and pious little Mary Ambler, 
who won the heart of John Marshall when 
she was only fourteen years of age, and about 
whose marriage a pretty little romance is 
woven. It is told that when John Marshall 
was quite a young man and a captain in the 
Revolutionary army he fell in love with little 
Mary Ambler, 14 years old, at first sight, 
and after the war was over they were mar- 
ried at " The Cottage " in Hanover County, a 
family seat of one of the Amblers. It is a 
tradition that after the groom had paid the 
minister's fee his fortune was only one guinea 
in his pocket! But he lived to be the greatest 
lawyer America has produced and Chief Jus- 
tice of the United States ! The Marshalls 
have always been known for their remarkable 
42 



Oak Hill 43 

intellectual power, and the Amblers for their 
beautiful piety, a characteristic so pronounced 
in that family that it gave rise to the saying, 
" As pious as an Ambler," which is still heard 
in Old Virginia even in these days. 

Through the kindness of Mrs. John Mar- 
shall, whose husband was the grandson of 
Chief Justice Marshall, this old Marshall 
recipe is given. It has been used in the Mar- 
shall family for generations. 

SPICED CURRANTS 

{Oak Hill) 

Six pounds of currants, 4 pounds of brown 
sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, 
and 2 tablespoonfuls of cloves. Boil twenty 
minutes. Seal while hot. 

Mrs. John Marshall. 

A very amusing little story is told about 
Chief Justice Marshall when he was once 
riding over the mountains in Virginia. His 
gig became entangled in some trees and un- 
derbrush and he seemed unable to extricate it. 
An old darky, passing at the time, took in 



44 Oak Hill 

the situation at a glance and exclaimed, 
" Wha' fo', marsa, don't yo' back yo' hoss?" 
The Judge, acting upon the old darky's sug- 
gestion, was immediately helped out of the 
difficulty, and with much gratitude he called 
out, " Uncle, you will find a dollar waiting 
for you at the next tavern." When the old 
darky presented himself at the latter place and 
received the thankoffering he clasped it in 
his hands and exclaimed, " Well, sir, he wuz 
a gemman fo' suah, sir," and, tapping his 
forehead with his fingers, added gravely, 
" But he ain't got nuffin' in heah." 



"COLONEL CARTER OF 
CARTERSVILLE" 

" Colonel Carter of Cartersville." Do we 
know him? Why, we have lived with him 
so long that he has become to us a living 
figure. And Chad — dear old Chad! Just 
listen and the Colonel will tell us how to serve 
and eat canvasback ducks, and Chad will tell 
us how to eat " tar'pin." 

" Then the ducks! " 

" Lay 'em here, Chad — right under my 
nose. Nozv hand me that pile of plates sizzlin' 
hot and give that carvin' knife a turn or two 
across the hearth. Major, dip a bit of celery 
in the salt and follow it with a mou'ful of 
claret. It will prepare yo' palate for the kind 
of food we raise gentlemen on down my way. 
See that red blood, suh, followin the knife! 

" My dear old Aunt Nancy sends me a pair 
every zveek, bless her szveet soul! Fill yo' 
glasses and let us drink to her health and hap- 
piness." (Here the Colonel rose from his 
chair. ) 

45 



46 " Colonel Carter of Carter sville" 

" Gentlemen, the best thing on this earth — a 
true Southern lady!" 

" Now, Chad, the red pepper." 

" Jelly f No, suh; not a suspicion of it. A 
pinch of salt, a dust of cayenne, then shut yo' 
eyes and mouth, and don't open them 'cept for 
a drop of good red zvine. It is the salt marsh 
in the early mornin' that you are tastin' , suh — ■ 
not molasses candy." — From " Colonel Car- 
ter of Cartersville," by F. Hopkinson Smith. 

" Chad wreaked his vengeance upon the 
absconding terrapin by plunging him, with all 
his sins upon him, headlong into the boiling 
pot, and half an hour later tvas engaged at a 
side table removing, with the help of an iron 
fork, the upper shell of the steaming vaga- 
bond." 

" Tar' pin jes' like a crab, Major, on'y got 
mo' meat to 'em. But yo' got to know 'em 
fust to eat 'em. Now dis yere shell is de hot 
plate, an' ye do all yo' eatin' right inside it," 
said Chad, dropping a spoonful of butter, the 
juice of a lemon, and a pinch of salt into the 
impromptu dish. 

" Now, Major, take yo' fork an' pick out all 



" Colonel Carter of Cartersville " 47 

dat black meat an' dip it in de sauce, an' wid 
ebery mou'ful take one 0' dem little yaller 
eggs. Dat's de way we eat tar pin. Dis yer 
stewin' him up in pote wine is scand'lous, 
can't taste nuMn' but de wine. But dat's 
tar' pin." — From " Colonel Carter of Carters- 
ville," by F. Hopkinson Smith. 



PART II 
MARYLAND 



MARYLAND 

" Hark to a wand'ring son's appeal, 

Maryland, my Maryland ! 
My Mother State, to thee I kneel, 

Maryland, my Maryland ! 
For Liberty and Truth and Right, 
Let all your loyal sons unite, 
Drive all invaders from thy sight, 

Maryland, my Maryland ! " 

" Maryland is only a rim of shore, a shell of moun- 
tain, but all pure gold." 

— George Alfred Town send. 



HAMPTON 

In the Dulaney's Valley, steeped in mem- 
ories and traditions, lies Hampton, the grand 
old manor where the Ridgelys have been 
cradled for two hundred years. Robert 
Ridgely, the progenitor of the Hampton 
branch of the Ridgelys, came to Maryland in 
the ship Assurance in 1634. His son, Captain 
Charles Ridgely, was the builder of Hampton, 
which is the most notable house in Maryland 
and was built in the heart of Captain Ridgely' s 
vast estate of 10,000 acres, which has de- 
scended from father to son according to the 
English law of primogeniture. Captain 
Charles Ridgely married Deborah Dorsey, a 
demure little Methodist, and it is said that 
while while she opened Hampton House with 
a prayer meeting, her less pious lord held a 
rollicking card-party in the attic with his 
fellow-officers. 

Priscilla, the young sister of Deborah 
51 



52 Hampton 

Dorsey Ridgely, married Governor Charles 
Ridgely, nephew and heir of the gallant Cap- 
tain who served his country in the Revolu- 
tionary war and in the Continental Congress 
in 1776. 

Among the many interesting heirlooms at 
Hampton is a magnificent silver cup that was 
won by the favorite horse of Governor Charles 
Ridgely after it had fallen and broken its leg. 
The horse called the " Post Boy " was put in 
the paddock after the accident, but when he 
heard the bell ring he jumped the fence and 
came in ahead of the other racers on three 
legs. 

The great central hall of the old mansion is 
not only a magnificent picture of by-gone 
days, but it is considered the most perfect 
specimen of the luxury and elegance of the 
early colonial life now remaining intact in this 
country. Its walls are covered with family 
portraits and rare old paintings by the Italian 
masters. Tradition says a four-in-hand coach 
can easily turn around in this grand old hall, 
which has been the scene of many brilliant 
social functions. 



Hampton 5& 

The drawing-room and music-room also 
abound in elegance, and are veritable treas- 
ure houses of art, with their portraits and 
miniatures and rare old tapestries. In the 
music-room is still standing the old harp 
which is 175 3^ears old, and which Sully por- 
trayed in his portrait of Mrs. Charles Ridgely 
which is still hanging in the old hallway at 
Hampton. 

The terraced gardens with their carefully 
clipped borders of English boxwood are as 
beautifully kept to-day as they were two hun- 
dred years ago, and about them there is a com- 
pelling charm. 

Hampton has been the home of the descend- 
ants of two Governors of Maryland — Gov- 
ernor Charles Ridgely and General John 
Eager Howard. Standing in proud seclusion 
upon this grand old estate is the family vault 
built of granite, and it is enclosed by a high 
stone wall covered with English ivy. The 
entrance to it is made through massive iron 
gates. Through the kindness of Mrs. John 
Ridgely, known by the quiet title " Mrs. 
Ridgely of Hampton," we have the following : 



54 Hampton 

A HARVEST DRINK 

(Hampton) 

Mix with 5 gallons good cool water, £ gal- 
lon of molasses, i quart vinegar, and 2 ounces 
powdered ginger. 

A SIMPLE POTATO PUDDING 

(Hampton) 

Six large potatoes boiled and mashed, 6 
eggs, a saucer of sugar. Beat yolks and 
whites separately, mix the sugar with the 
yolks, and then add the potatoes. The whites, 
beaten to a froth, come last. Bake in oven 
for 10 to 15 minutes and serve. Some like it 
with cold butter sauce. 

N. B. — This pudding will be light or heavy 
just as sponge cake is light or heavy. The 
whites are to be stirred in gently and not al- 
lowed to stand, but be baked immediately and 
served immediately. It is a matter of calcu- 
lation as well as of wrist. 

(The recipe for the famous old " Mint 
Brandy of Hampton " will be found in the 
chapter on " Mint.") 



GLEN ELLEN 

Glen Ellen, the stately old home of Mr. and 
Mrs. Robert Gilmor, was considered one of 
the most beautiful estates in Maryland. It 
lies in the Dulaney's Valley and joins Hamp- 
ton, the estate of the Ridgelys. Mrs. Robert 
Gilmor was before her marriage the beautiful 
Miss Ellen Ward, and she was the mother of 
the late Mr. William Gilmor and of Judge 
Robert Gilmor. Through the kindness of Mrs. 
Nannie Keys Levering a few old family 
recipes from Glen Ellen and also from 
Waverly, the home of Governor and Mrs. 
George Howard, are given. 

Mrs. Levering is the wife of Mr. Leonidas 
Levering and the daughter of the late Mr. 
Robert Keys and Mrs. Rebecca Norris Keys, 
who as Miss Rebecca Norris of Baltimore was 
a great belle of her day, and was a woman of 
rare loveliness and charm. Blenden, the 
handsome country home of Mr. and Mrs. 
Leonidas Levering, was named for Blenden 

55 



5 6 Glen Ellen 

Hall, the magnificent ancestral estate of Mrs. 
Levering's family in England. 

SOFT GINGER BREAD 

{Glen Ellen) 

Two pounds flour, i pound butter, i pound 
brown sugar, i pint molasses, 6 eggs. Cream, 
butter and sugar together, then add flour and 
molasses alternately; half of the flour retained 
and beaten in alternately with the eggs. 
Grated lemon peel, allspice, cinnamon and 
ginger; 2 teaspoonfuls o'f soda in molasses. 
Mrs. Robert Gilmor, 
Glen Ellen. 

blackberry pudding (excellent) 

(Glen Ellen) 

Four tablespoonfuls of flour, -J pint of milk, 
yolks of 4 eggs, £ pound of butter, f pound 
brown sugar, nutmeg to taste, wine if you 
choose. Mix as a batter; add 1 pint of black- 
berries mixed in gradually. Bake in a greased 
dish faster than cake. Serve with " Nuns' 
Butter Sauce." Mrs. Robert Gilmor. 



Glen Ellen 57 

BREAKFAST BREAD 

{Glen Ellen) 

Two eggs, i pound flour, butter size of an 
egg, I cake of yeast. Mix with milk as stiff 
as you can stir. Beat light and put in a cov- 
ered pan until next morning, then bake in a 
hot oven. Mrs. Robert Gilmor. 

brown SOUP 

A knuckle of veal, 3 quarts of water. Let 
it simmer down for about 4 hours before 
seasoning, then put in thyme, parsley, a little 
mace, allspice, salt and pepper. Let simmer 
2 hours more and thicken with browned flour. 
Beat the yolks of an egg with a tablespoonful 
of butter and stir in after removing soup 
from the fire. 

Mrs. William Gilmor. 



WAVERLY 

Waverly, the beautiful estate of Governor 
and Mrs. George Howard, was a wedding 
gift to Governor Howard from his distin- 
guished father, General John Eager Howard 
of Revolutionary fame. 

It was at this beautiful place that the young 
couple began their married life, which proved 
to be a very happy one. Governor George 
Howard was not only a Governor of Mary- 
land, but he was born the son of a Governor 
of Maryland, his father having been elected 
Governor the year before he was born. His 
mother was Margaret Chew Howard, and he 
spent his early life at Belvedere, the beautiful 
estate of his parents in Baltimore County. 

Governor George Howard was a devoted 
father, and very fond of home life. The 
household at Waverly was a very large one, 
for Mrs. Howard was the mother of thirteen 
children. 

58 



Waverly 59 

JUMBLES 

( Waverly ) 

One pound flour, ^ pound butter, f pound 
brown sugar, 2 eggs, \ nutmeg (grated), 2 
tablespoonfuls rose water. Roll out long 
with hands and join in rings (very good). 
Mrs. George Howard, 

Waverly. 

RICE FLOUR PUDDING 

{Waverly) 

• One quart milk, | pound butter, 4 eggs, 5 
tablespoonfuls rice flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, rind of 1 lemon (grated). Beat yolks 
light, add sugar and lemon peel. Boil the 
milk, mix flour with a little cold water, and 
pour boiling milk on it. Beat in eggs and 
sugar, and put back on fire until it thickens 
a little. Stir in the butter. Pour into a but- 
tered dish, add beaten whites of eggs, and bake 
quickly. 

Mrs. George Howard. 



BELMONT 

Belmont, the homestead of the Hanson fam- 
ily, is one of the old manor houses in Mary- 
land. It was built in 1738 by Caleb Dorsey, 
the grant of the estate having been given him 
by King George II; and as it has descended 
by inheritance, no deed of it has ever been 
recorded to the present day. The old house 
is built of English brick (which meant nobil- 
ity in those days) and yellow stucco. It has 
a wide entrance hall running through the cen- 
ter, with great wings upon either side, one of 
which is known as the ballroom wing. In a 
stone tablet over the main doorway are cut 
the initials of the owner and his bride, " C. and 
P. D." (Caleb and Priscilla Dorsey). 

Both front and back of the old mansion the 
spacious grounds are terraced, and there is a 
charming old-fashioned garden, bordered with 
boxwood. This boxwood hedge is one of the 
most beautiful in Maryland. 

Edward Dorsey, the son of Caleb and Pris- 
60 



Belmont 61 

cilia Dorsey, inherited Belmont, and from him 
it was inherited by his daughter Priscilla, who 
married Alexander Contee Hanson. Their 
marriage was a very romantic one, as they 
eloped in a post-chaise from Baltimore. 

Through the courtesy of Miss Nannie Han- 
son, who, with her brothers and sisters, still 
lives at Belmont, the following old recipes of 
the Hanson family are given : 

FOR CURING HAMS 

{Belmont) 

For every 10 hams of moderate size, take 
3! pounds of fine salt, 1 pound of saltpetre, and 
2 pounds of brown sugar. After mixing these 
thoroughly, rub the hams therewith on either 
side. Pack them in a hogshead, covered tight, 
and allow them to remain about three weeks. 
Then take out and put them in a pickling tub 
or hogshead and cover with brine strong 
enough to swim an Qgg. After remaining in 
pickle three weeks take out and thoroughly 
rub with fresh salt, and hang up in a well- 
ventilated meat-house for a few days to dry. 
After which smoke them well with preen hick- 



62 Belmont 

ory wood until they have acquired the color 
of bright mahogany. Put them in white- 
zvashed bags, pack away in a hogshead with 
wood ashes until wanted. These hams, when 
two years old, should be soaked twenty-four 
hours in cold water and then boiled slowly 
for five hours. This is an old and famous 
recipe that has been used at Belmont for gen- 
erations. 

Miss Nannie Hanson, 

Belmont. 

LETTUCE DRESSING 

{Belmont) 

One cup of thick or sour cream, yolk of 
one hard-boiled egg, dessert spoonful of vine- 
gar, pinch of salt, and a salt spoonful of mus- 
tard. Mash the egg well, add the vinegar, 
mustard, and salt, then the cream; stir well. 
This makes a delicious summer dressing, and 
takes the place of olive oil, which sometimes 
has a " taste " in hot weather. 



WINSTON 

" Hi, Bettie Martin ! tiptoe fine, 
Couldn't get a husband to suit her mind." 

What Marylander to the manner born has 
not hummed this couplet, and what Mary- 
lander has not heard the story of this famous 
Colonial beauty and belle of old Maryland! 
The story runs that her lovers were so nu- 
merous that it was impossible for her to decide 
between them, and at last her choice lay be- 
tween two friends — Dallam and Winston. 
Dallam won her heart, and after several years 
of happy married life he died, after which 
Winston gained his heart's desire by marry- 
ing- the widow. Three sons and a daughter 
blessed each marriage. The daughter of 
Dallam was the mother of Richard Caswell, 
who was the Governor of South Carolina and 
a member of Congress. The daughter of 
Winston was the mother of William Paca, 
who was the Governor of Maryland, a mem- 
ber of the Continental Congress, and a signer 
of the Declaration of Independence. 
63 



64 Winston 

On each trip to and from Congress, we are 
told that both grandsons visited the beautiful 
Bettie, — the Lady of the Manor, — who. lived, 
it is said, to the great age of 120 years. And 
it is a tradition in the family that on the day 
before she died she was entertaining a num- 
ber of distinguished guests; and as the dear 
old lady arose from the table she waved her 
hand with that inimitable grace which charac- 
terized her and said, " Now, Betsy's Betsy will 
take you to see Betsy's Betsy's Betsy's Betsy's 
Betsy." And she led them into a room to see 
the little Betsy, her great-granddaughter, 
that was Heaven-given a few weeks before. 
Through the kindness of the great-great-great- 
granddaughter of this remarkable Betsy the 
following old Colonial recipes are given: 

BLACK FRUIT CAKE 

( Winston) 

One pound of butter, 1^ pounds sugar, 1 
pound and 2 ounces flour, 1 dozen eggs, 1 nut- 
meg, 4^ pounds raisins (seeded and cut fine), 
4^ pounds currants, 1 pound citron (cut fine), 
1 cup molasses with a little soda in it, \ cup 



Winston 65 

brandy. Cream butter and sugar until light, 
add eggs, one at a time, then molasses and 
brandy. Stir in well and add the flour and 
fruit. Line the pan with 4 or 5 thicknesses of 
light brown paper. Bake carefully and slowly 
for 4 hours. 

It is said that a potato pudding is dear to 
the heart of every Marylander to the manner 
born, and here is a most excellent old recipe 
for one. Who knows but that Bettie Martin 
might have enjoyed this very pudding in the 
long ago! 



AN IRISH POTATO PUDDING 

( Winston) 

To two pounds of potatoes after they are 
boiled and mashed add one pound of butter 
while the potatoes are hot. Take 1 pound of 
white sugar and beat into it 8 eggs. When 
the potatoes are cool add the sugar and eggs; 
then add \ pint of sweet cream. Flavor with 
\ tumbler of brandy and nutmeg to taste. 
Bake in an under crust. 



66 Winston 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE 

( Winston) 

One pint rich cream sweetened and flavored 
to taste, -| box of gelatine dissolved in the 
cream, whites of 7 eggs beaten stiff and added 
after the mixture has begun to congeal. Put 
in a mold lined with cake and set in a cold 
place. This recipe was brought to Winston 
from Charleston, South Carolina. 



KINGSTON HALL 

By the waters of the Chesapeake in old 
Somerset is Kingston Hall, the ancestral home 
of Governor Thomas King Carroll, the first 
Governor Carroll of Maryland. It was built 
early in the sixteenth century by Robert 
King, the father of Thomas King, who was 
the father of Elizabeth King who married Col. 
Henry Carroll of St. Mary's County. Their 
son, Thomas King Carroll, who became Gov- 
ernor of Maryland in 1829, married Julia 
Stevenson, the only daughter of Dr. Henry 
Stevenson, who, with his brother, was grad- 
uated at the University of Oxford, England, 
and came to Baltimore with large wealth. 
(There were then but ten houses in Balti- 
more.) He built a palatial residence there 
called " Parnassus," and gave largely to the 
upbuilding of the city. His son, Cosmo Stev- 
enson, became an eminent doctor, and several 
noted men owe their education to him. 

Governor Thomas King Carroll became a 
67 



68 Kingston Hall 

law partner of Robert Goodloe Harper, but 
this lasted only for a short time, as the father 
of Governor Carroll died leaving his large es- 
tate, with 150 slaves, in care of his mother. 
So he had to abandon the practice of law and 
return to Kingston Hall, where all his chil- 
dren were born. The old manor house at 
Kingston Hall was very large and handsome, 
and its beautiful terraced gardens sloped down 
to the water's edge. Governor Carroll remem- 
bered when the water came up to the gran- 
aries, and the boats were loaded with grain to 
be carried to Baltimore. But the waters have 
now greatly receded. 

Gov. Thomas King Carroll was a deep 
thinker and a wise counselor, and his law 
partner, General Robert Goodloe Harper, 
ranked as a lawyer with Taney, Wirt, Winder, 
Pinckney, and other noted lawyers. He was 
a native of South Carolina, but came to Mary- 
land, from whence he was elected to the United 
States Senate. In 1802 General Harper mar- 
ried Catherine, the second daughter of Charles 
Carroll of Carrollton, who was one of the most 
distinguished gentlemen Maryland has ever 
produced. He was the last surviving signer 



Kingston Hall 69 

of the Declaration of Independence. His re- 
mains rest under the altar in the chapel at 
Doughoregan Manor, where he lived in lordly 
style. This is considered one of the very fin- 
est estates in old Maryland. It is now the 
home of ex-Governor John Lee Carroll, who 
was the second Governor Carroll of Mary- 
land, and who is the great-grandson of Charles 
Carroll of Carrollton. 

Kingston Hall has always had the reputa- 
tion of having the best table and cooking on 
the eastern shore of Maryland. Through the 
courtesy of Mrs. Ada Carroll Bowdle, wife of 
Dr. Bowdle of the United States Navy, and 
daughter of Governor Thomas King Carroll, 
these old recipes from Kingston Hall are 
given : 

VEGETABLE SOUP 

{Kingston Hall) 

To make a dinner pot of vegetable soup for 
a family of seven or eight, put on in cold water 
i\ pounds beef and boil till tender. Then add 
the following, finely cut up: 5 good-sized po- 
tatoes, 4 carrots, \ dozen medium-sized tur- 
nips, I of a small head of cabbage, 1 can of 



JO Kingston Hall 

tomatoes, or the like quantity of fresh ones. 
Let all these boil and put more water in when 
needed. One hour before dinner cut up 2 
onions and a bunch of green celery tops and 
put them in with the other vegetables. (If 
celery is boiled too long it loses its flavor.) 
Before taking up for dinner the beef should 
be cut up in small pieces and returned to the 
pot. This is a delicious soup of old Mary- 
land. 

CHICKEN SOUP 

{Kingston Hall) 

Put the chicken on in cold water and let it 
boil till tender. Take it out about an hour 
before dinner and cut it in pieces and return 
it to the pot. Add about 1 pint of milk, a 
large piece of butter, red pepper, and salt to 
taste. Also put in a teaspoonful of flour made 
to a thickening, then make small balls out of 
fine pastry and drop them into the soup twenty 
minutes before serving. Do not remove the 
lid from the pot until ready to serve, as doing 
so would make them heavy; and do not let 
them stand, but serve at once. This is a very 



Kingston Hall Ji 

fine old Maryland soup, and very much out 
of the ordinary. 

PICKLED BOILED FISH 

(Kingston Hall) 

When a large rockfish has been boiled, a 
very delightful dish can be made out of what 
has been left over by taking 4 hard-boiled 
eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, and salt and 
red pepper to taste. Put a little butter in a 
frying-pan, and when it gets hot, put in the 
mixture and turn it over several times, until 
it is hot throughout, then serve. This makes 
a delightful entree. 

DEVILED TURKEY. 

(Kingston Hall) 

Take the first joints of the turkey and 
the back (which are not used generally the 
first day), and also the gizzard. Make in- 
cisions in each piece and fill them with butter, 
red and black pepper and salt to taste. Broil 
them and serve with browned gravy seasoned 
with pepper and salt and a little mustard 
poured over it in a flat dish. 



72 Kingston Hall 

BOILED TURKEY 

(Kingston Hall) 

Take a hen turkey, preparing it in the 
usual way, and fill it with the following dress- 
ing: Two eggs beaten with chopped beef 
suet, flour enough to make a thick pudding, 
seasoned with black pepper, salt, and a little 
butter. Fill the turkey with this, sew up well, 
and put it in a pot of water and boil until 
tender. Make a gravy of drawn butter (flour 
mashed in butter and cold water and boiled in 
a vessel). Pour some of it over the turkey, 
after which cut up 3 or 4 hard-boiled eggs. 
Put them over the turkey on top of the thick 
gravy, then thin the remainder of the gravy 
with water from the pot in which the turkey 
has been boiled, and serve it with the turkey. 
Garnish the dish containing the turkey with 
carrots cut in rings. The turkey hen should be 
boiled in spring, and gobblers roasted in 
winter. 

Mrs. Ada Carroll Bowdle, 

Kingston Hall. 



CASTLE HOWE 

Through the kindness of Isabel S. Mason, 
wife of Dr. Charles T. Mason, these old recipes 
are given : 

Mrs. Isabel S. Mason is a lineal descendant, 
through her grandmother, — who was a Ran- 
dolph, — of King Robert Bruce of Scotland, 
King Robert's daughter Isabel having married 
Thomas Fitz Randolph, Earl of Moray. Isa- 
bel S. Mason, as she is known in literature, is 
a writer of exquisite verse. 

Dr. Charles T. Mason is the great-grand- 
son of Rev. Jeremiah Mason, who resided on 
the beautiful and picturesque Castle Howe es- 
tate on Licking Creek, Washington County, 
one of the early Mason establishments in 
Maryland. 

GENUINE OLD ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING 

{Randolph Family) 
Two pounds stoned raisins, 2 pounds stoned 

73 



\ 



74 Castle Howe 

prunes. Put in a dish and pour over them 3 
wineglasses of brandy and a tablespoonful each 
of ground cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, and 
\ tablespoonful of mace, and one nutmeg. Let 
this mixture stand from 36 to 48 hours, and 
occasionally stir it well. Sprinkle a hand- 
ful of flour over 2 pounds of beef suet, and 
chop very fine, removing all strings. Mince 
one ounce of candied or preserved orange peel 
and one lemon peel and 1 pound of preserved 
citron. Mix with the suet. Beat 8 eggs very 
thick and smooth with 1 teaspoonful of salt, 
add \ pound sugar and 1^ pounds of flour, 
then the fruit and the brandy. If too thick, 
mix in a little cream or milk. Boil or steam 
7 hours. This makes a large quantity, but it 
will keep all winter in a cool, dry place, and 
it is better after it has been made some time. 
One quarter of this recipe will make a pud- 
ding large enough for six or seven persons. 
This is a genuine old English plum pudding, 
and has been used in the Randolph family for 
many generations. 

RUM SAUCE FOR THE PUDDING 

Six eggs, yolks and whites, beaten separ- 



Castle Howe 75 

ately, then beaten together, with sugar and 
rum to flavor. 



FOAM SAUCE FOR THE PUDDING 

One cup sugar, 2 eggs, -| cup butter, 1 wine- 
glassful either sherry or brandy, and a little 
nutmeg. 

Mrs. Isabel S. Mason. 



Heigh-ho ! sing heigh-ho ! unto the green holly : 
Most friendship is feigning, most loving mere folly: 

Then, heigh-ho ! the holly ! 

This life is most jolly!" 

— Shakespeare. 



WHITE CAKE 

{Castle Howe) 

Whites of 18 eggs beaten stiff, 1 pound 
flour, 1 pound sugar, f pound butter, 1 tea- 
spoonful soda, and \ teaspoonful cream of tar- 
tar, 1 cup sour cream. Mix the cream of tar- 
tar with the flour dry. Flavor with lemon. 

CHARLOTTE POLONAISE CAKE 

(Mason Family) 
Two cups powdered sugar, | cup butter, 4 



j6 Castle Howe 

e gg s > whites and yolks beaten separately; I 
small cup of cream, 3 cups prepared flour. 

FILLING 

Six eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 3 cups 
cream, scalding hot; 6 tablespoonfuls grated 
chocolate, 6 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, -| 
pound sweet almonds blanched and chopped, \ 
pound chopped citron, \ pound macaroons, \ 
pound crystallized peaches, cherries, or what- 
ever preferred. Beat the yolks very light. 
Stir into the cream the flour wet with a little 
cold milk; then add very slowly the beaten 
yolks. Boil slowly, stirring all the time, for 
five minutes. Take from the fire and divide 
the custard into three parts. Put the grated 
chocolate with the macaroons, finely crum- 
bled, with one tablespoonful sugar, into one 
part of the custard, stirring well, then boil five 
minutes, stirring constantly. Take from the 
fire and beat with egg beater and set aside to 
cool. Now pound the blanched almonds a few 
at a time in a wooden mortar, adding now 
and then a few drops of rose water. Chop 
the citron fine, mix with the almonds, adding 
3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir this into the 



Castle Howe JJ 

second part of the custard. Heat to a boil and 
set away to cool. Chop the crystallized fruit 
fine and mix with the third part of the cus- 
tard. Heat to a boil and set aside to cool. 
Season the chocolate with vanilla, the almonds 
and citron with bitter almonds ; the fruit needs 
no flavoring. 

Bake your cake in four layers. Between the 
first and second put the chocolate, between the 
second and third put the citron and almonds, 
and in the last layer (the top layer) put the 
fruit. Ice with a lemon icing. 

This is a royal old cake recipe, and has been 
used in the Mason family for generations. It 
is as delicious as it sounds troublesome. 

Mrs. Isabel S. Mason. 



MINT 

Oh, give me a day of boyhood, 

Filled with ardent glee; 
Of careless fun by the mint-bound run 

Where sucker and chub bites free. 

There is never a breath so spicy, 

Nor ever so rare a glint, 
As the golden light of June day bright, 

And the redolence of mint. 

All the wealth of virgin freshness 
Spread out for my unshod feet, 

The poignant scent with music blent, 
From the songs of thrushes sweet. 

When my rod was Freedom's scepter, 
And my battered straw her crown; 

But, ah, to-day I slave away 
In the blare of the brazen town. 

I starve for the cool, wild freshness, 

I thirst for the ripples' glint; 
I pine for a day to fish away 

From a bank embound with mint. 

— Isabel S. Mason. 



78 



Mint 79 

MINT 

(Mentha aquatica) 

What old Virginia or Maryland manor has 
not a mint bed in some cool, damp, shady nook 
underneath one of its grand old trees? And 
what a restful spot it is ! Dr. van Dyke says : 
" It is the bed whereon memory loves to lie 
and dream. . . . When its perfume rises 
the shrines of the past are unveiled and remi- 
niscence begins." 

And it truly is an echoing symphony from 
year to year and from age to age! When we 
think of the forms that have bent over it when 
it was all sparkling with dew, and the fair 
hands that have gathered it, — those long, 
slender hands with tapering fingers that have 
long since crumbled to dust — what memories 
throne:! In the moonlight of memorv we can 
see those dear faces and hear those sweet 
voices, as, " Far, far away, like bells at even- 
ing tolling," they come and go. 

Ah, yes, it is now but a memory, a fra- 
grance! Like the perfume of some rare wild 
flower, it eludes our grasp, but returns again 
and again to charm our senses. 



80 Mint 

And who that has read about " Polly " and 
" the Colonel" and " Marse Bob " and " Char- 
ity " and " Drinkwater Torm " has not 
thirsted, yes, thirsted, for one of those mint 
juleps made by " Drinkwater's " unsteady 
hands, and served in one of those " silver cans 
with frosted sides." But here is a recipe for 
a rare old mint julep of old Maryland, which, 
no doubt, even would have pleased the Col- 
onel and perhaps tempered his wrath. 

MINT JULEP 

(Weldon) 

Gather the mint when the dew is on it, 
sprinkle it with pulverized sugar and a few 
drops of brandy and water, and bruise it gently 
till the mint oil begins to come. In bruising 
the mint use a glass mortar and a wooden pes- 
tle. A pestle made of beechwood is best (but 
be sure to use a wooden pestle). Put the 
bruised mint in a glass and pour over it a cup 
of boiling water. Let this set for 15 minutes. 
Then strain the mint and pour the juice in a 
silver tankard that has been filled with crushed 
ice. Let this set for a few minutes, and then 



Mint 8 1 

pour into it your French brandy that has been 
kept at a temperature of about 40 degrees 
Fahr., and garnish the silver tankard with 
sprigs of mint. Do not use a straw when 
drinking it, but drink from the tankard. 

Miss Mary Josephine Bomberger. 

MINT BRANDY 

{Hampton) 

Gather the mint at a season when the sun is 
hot — say, July; use only the tender shoots. 
Strip off the leaves and cover them with 
brandy in an open bowl and allow it to remain 
in the sun for three or four hours, according 
to the strength of the mint flavor desired. 
Strain without bruising, and then sweeten to 
taste before bottling. (Dissolve the sugar in 
just enough hot water to melt it.) It can be 
strained through a strainer first, and then 
through a bit of cheesecloth, to insure clear- 
ness. 

This is a specific for some forms of bowel 
trouble, and is a famous old recipe at Hamp- 
ton. 

Mrs. John Ridgely. 



82 Mint 

MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB 

{Weldori) 

One-fourth pint vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls 
chopped mint, and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Let stand for an hour or more before using. 

Mrs. M. BOMBERGER. 
MINT JELLY FOR LAMB 

(Weld on) 

Wash a generous handful of mint leaves 
and put to steep in 1 pint of boiling water. 
After the infusion has stood several hours, 
strain through a flannel bag and add an equal 
amount of granulated sugar. Boil without 
stirring, to a thick syrup. It is better to fill 
your pint cup several times with leaves and 
make about a quart of the essence at once, as 
it boils down greatly. Make a clear apple 
jelly and add enough of the mint essence to 
give a pale green color. 

Mrs. Bomberger. 

"Y- conserved mint leaves. 

Make a syrup of sugar and water, and while 
hot dip the mint leaves in it. Then drain them 



Mint 83 

carefully one at a time. When cold, dust well 
with granulated sugar. 

Mrs. O. H. W. Hunter. 

CREAM MINTS 

{Weldon) 

One cup of white sugar, \ cup of mint es- 
sence; boil together until it will candy in cold 
water. Remove from the fire, pour into 
another dish and stir till creamy. Drop 
quickly with a teaspoon on a marble slab. To 
prepare the mint essence for the candy, take 
a generous handful of mint, bruise it gently 
till the mint oil comes, then pour 1 cup of 
boiling water on it and let it steep for 15 
minutes, then strain and use £ cup of mint 
essence to 1 cup of sugar. This is a candy 
recipe of the old school. 

Mrs. M. Benton Bomberger. 

Sing me a song of perfumes, 

Where winding your lyric rhyme ; 
Are sprigs of spicy tansy, 

And aromatic thyme. 
The breath of the pure and open 

From brooks where cedars glint, 
And best of all where ripples call 

The poignant scent of mint. 

— Isabel S. Mason. 



WILLIAMS' PORT 

Mr. Otho Holland Williams Hunter kindly 
gives a very rare old recipe for Catawba wine, 
and also some recipes for punch. Mr. Hunter 
is the great-great-nephew of General Otho 
Holland Williams, a distinguished gentleman 
of Colonial days, who was the founder of 
Williams' Port, and a gallant officer of the 
Revolutionary army. A magnificent monu- 
ment was erected to his memory in 1905, by 
his country in recognition of his valuable serv- 
ices rendered to it, Congress having made a 
handsome appropriation for that purpose. 

CATAWBA WINE 

This song of mine 

Is a Song of the Vine, 
To be sung by the glowing embers 
j Of wayside inns, 

When the rain begins 
To darken the drear Novembers. 

While pure as a spring 

Is the wine I sing, 
And to praise it, one needs but name it ; 

For Catawba wine 

Has need of no sign, 
No tavern-bush to proclaim it. 

— Longfellow. 

84 



Williams' Port 8$ 

CATAWBA WINE 

{Mr. O. H. W. Hunter) 

Mash the grapes in a large bowl and let 
stand for 3 or 4 days, then squeeze juice out 
of grapes, and to 2 quarts of juice add 2 quarts 
of water and 2 pounds of sugar. Let it all 
thoroughly ferment. After it is through fer- 
menting, put a syphon in the barrel by boring 
a hole through the cork that is in the bung- 
hole of the barrel. Make the hole just large 
enough to get the syphon through, and seal 
around the syphon in the cork with hot wax 
so the air cannot get in the barrel. Put the 
end of the syphon just inside the barrel and 
put the other end of the syphon in a vessel 
which is kept constantly filled with pure water. 
Let the syphon remain in the barrel for 3 or 
4 months, then bottle and seal tight. This 
wine looks like champagne and tastes like it. 
But to obtain this result you must follow every 
minute direction in this recipe. 

" And lately, by the Tavern Door agape. 
Came shining through the Dusk an Angel Shape 
Bearing a Vessel on his Shoulder; and 
He bid me taste it ; and 't was — the Grape ! " 

— Rubdiaydt, of Omar Khayyam. 



86 Williams' Port 

TEA PUNCH 

Three pints of whisky, i pint of rum, I 
large tea cupful of green tea, 2 dozen lemons, 
4 pounds sugar, 2 quarts of boiling water. 
Pour water on tea and let it steep for a short 
time. Squeeze lemons over the sugar. Peel 
very thinly 18 lemons and pour the boiling 
hot tea over the peels. Let it stand 5 minutes, 
then strain and pour tea over sugar and lemon 
juice. When sugar is entirely dissolved add 
whisky and rum and strain again. When 
ready to use add oranges, pineapples (cut in 
dice shape), Maraschino cherries, or any other 
fruit you may like. Some persons like curo- 
coa in it also. Put this punch mixture in the 
punch bowl with a large lump of ice. This 
quantity will serve twenty-five people. 

Mr. O. H. W. Hunter. 

A CHAMPAGNE PUNCH FOR LADIES 

One quart of orange ice very well frozen 
and 1 bottle of California champagne. 

Mr. O. H. W. Hunter. 



BOONESBOROUGH 

Through the kindness of Mr. George A. 
Davis of Boonesborough a splendid old recipe 
for quince brandy is given. Mr. Davis is the 
son of the late Captain Elias Davis and the 
great-great-grandson of William Boone, who 
came from England and settled at Reading, 
Pennsylvania. From here he emigrated to 
Maryland and founded the little village of 
Boonesborough. He was of the family of 
Daniel Boone, the Kentucky pioneer, who came 
to Maryland, and, finding it so thickly settled, 
and being full of adventure, he emigrated 
to North Carolina, and later he went to Ken- 
tucky. A number of the families from this 
section of Maryland emigrated to Kentucky 
and helped to open up the wilds of that grand 
old Blue Grass State. Among these pioneers 
were the Shelbys, one of whom became a gov- 
ernor of that State : and the Hart family, into 
which Henry Clay married. 

William Boone and his wife Susannah 






88 Boonesborough 

Boone are buried in the old graveyard in 
Boonesborough, and lying near them in the old 
churchyard, is their daughter, upon whose 
tomb we read the quaint inscription: 

" Charlotte Boone 
Proprietress of Boone's Borough." 

The Boone family were of staunch old 
Quaker stock. 

AN OLD QUAKER TOAST 

" Here's to thee and thy folks, 
May they love me and my folks 
As much as me and my folks 

Love thee and thy folks. 
For there never were folks 
Since folks were folks 
That loved folks 
As well as me and my folks 

Love thee and thy folks." 

QUINCE BRANDY 

Select fine, large and perfect quinces. To 
make i^ gallons of the brandy take 2 quarts 
of quince juice, 4 quarts of Cognac brandy, 2.\ 
pounds of white sugar, 12 ounces bitter al- 
monds (bruised), 1 pound of coriander seed, 
3 ounces of cloves. Let stand for at least 48 
hours, then strain and bottle up. This is a 



Boonesborough 89 

very delicious drink. You can let this mixture 
stand for longer than 48 hours before strain- 
ing (if you have sufficient patience, Mr. Davis 
says) . 

Mr. George A. Davis. 

TO A ROSE 

(Gathered in the old Rose Garden at 
" Weldon," June 26, 1907.) 

Whether it be the damask bloom 

From the heart of Syria old ; 
Or the fern-leaf thorn in Scotland born, 

And wreathed with clustered gold. 
Whether it be the rose that blows 

In a palace garden fair ; 
Or the Cherokee white in the silken night, 

Of a Seminole maiden's hair; 
It matters not if high or low, 

If far or • near it grows ; 
Wherever it be, in royalty 

It shines as a Rose, a Rose. 

Whether it be the crimson bud. 

Where Vishnu's wife found birth : 
Or the moss-rose sweet that kissed the feet 

Of weary Christ on earth. 
The briar ablush the woodside way, 

The rambler roving high ; 
Or the pale Hermosa soft abloom 

'Neath " Weldon's " summer sky— 
It is ever, oh, ever the same sweet flower 

The past and present knows ; 
Wherever it be, it's royalty 

Will stamp it a Rose, a Rose. 

— Isabel S. Mason. 



WELDON 

" Green-walled by the hills of Maryland," 
in fact at the very foot of South Mountain 
lies Weldon, whose story is written in brick, 
for the quaint old house is built of brick and 
the walks around it are all made of brick, and 
so ancient are they that the roots of the great 
old trees have pushed them upward in many 
places. Miss Emily Emerson Lantz, in a 
recent publication, writes of it : " The old 
Welsh name Weldon was given to the Bom- 
berger estate by Lord Baltimore, and it is a 
beautiful old place adorned with a typical 
Southern gallery. The trees of the place are, 
many of them, more than a century old, and 
covered with English ivy. It has a picturesque 
garden hedged in by boxwood, where the 
quiet is broken by bird songs the year around. 
Even the click of the latch of the old front 
gate is a bird's note. All the surroundings 
are so quaint and old-fashioned that they seem 
but a chapter from an ancient book — and those 
90 



Weldon 91 

possessing imagination can almost hear the 
crack of whip and call of postboy and almost 
see the long-ago post-chaise speeding down 
the road." 

Through the kindness of Mrs. Bomberger 
of Weldon, wife of Mr. M. Benton Bom- 
berger, a number of old recipes are given. 

" Mr. M. Benton Bomberger is the great- 
grandson of Lawrence Bomberger, who was 
one of the landed gentlemen of Maryland be- 
fore the Revolutionary War, Frederick Cal- 
vert, sixth and last Lord Baltimore, having 
granted to him three tracts of land, named 
respectively ' Wine Hill,' ' Virgin Fair,' and 
' Blue Rock,' the latter having been granted 
July 1, 1758. And it was upon this 
grant of land that the first monument ever 
erected to George Washington was built, July 
4, 1827, by patriotic citizens of Boonesbor- 
ough, whose memories still thrilled with the 
triumph of the American Revolution. 

" In addition to these grants made by Lord 
Baltimore, Lawrence Bomberger was the 
owner of other large estates, and he also 
owned two wharves in the city of Baltimore, 
which were eventually sold for taxes, as his 



92 Weldon 

representative possessing the power of at- 
torney neglected to pay them in due time. 

" Lawrence Bomberger descended from an 
old and distinguished German family that had 
furnished a long line of statesmen for Prussia. 
He was a devout churchman, and he died full 
of years and was buried on his old estate 
where he had lived the quiet life of a country 
gentleman." 

These are the old Weldon recipes : 

" Then a ham brown and crisp, and bristling all over 
with cloves." 

OLD MARYLAND BAKED HAM 

{Weldon) 

Soak a ham in cold water for 2 clays and 2 
nights, changing the water in that time four 
times. Wash it thoroughly in tepid water. 
Place it skin down in the ham boiler, which 
must be full of cold water:" Do not boil too 
fast, and as the water boils down replenish 
with hot water. When the ham is done it 
will turn of its ozvn accord skin up in the 
boiler. While the ham is hot remove the 
skin carefully, then place the ham in a large 



Wei don 93 

pan. Stick the ham full of cloves, sprinkle 
with black pepper, bread crumbs, and brown 
sugar. Pour over it a cup of sherry wine and 
put it in the oven until it is nicely baked and 
browned. 

OLD COLONIAL EASTER HAM 

. {Weldon) 

Prepare and boil the ham just the same as 
an " Old Maryland Baked Ham." After the 
skin is removed (after the ham has been 
boiled) cut a generous slice out of the center 
of the Ham and fill it in with old Maryland 
Filling (the same that you use to fill fowls 
with), then stick the ham full of cloves, 
sprinkle with black pepper, bread crumbs, and 
brown sugar, and put it in the oven to bake 
a nice brown. This ham was used for dinner 
on Easter Sunday in Colonial times. 

OLD MARYLAND FILLING 

(IV eld on) 

Cut stale bread in i inch squares and put it 
into a skillet in butter that has been made 



94 Wei don 

already very hot. Stir all the time and toast 
to a nice light brown. Then put the bread 
into a bowl and scald with boiling water, using 
as much water as the bread will absorb with- 
out making the bread " soft." Then add 2 
eggs, and butter the size of an egg. Season 
with salt, pepper, celery, cut up; also parsley 
and a dash of onion. 

MARYLAND BISCUITS 

{Weld on) 

Three pounds flour, | pound lard, 1 small 
pinch of salt (too much salt will make the 
biscuits heavy). Beat with iron (never use 
wood). When worked out stick each biscuit 
on the top and bottom with a fork. Make up 
dough very stiff with water. 

THIN BISCUIT 

(Weldon) 

One pint flour, 1 egg, 1 spoonful of lard, 
a little salt Make up with sweet milk into a 
moderately stiff dough. Roll out quite thin 
and cut with a biscuit cutter. Then take each 



Weldon 95 

one and roll out as thin as possible. Stick all 
over with a fork and bake a light brown. 
These are the genuine old Southern " Thin 
Biscuits." 

BATTER BREAD ("BATTI BRAID ") 

(Weldon) 

One pint meal (white), I pint sweet milk, 
i pint boiling water or milk, 2 eggs, a little 
salt, £ tablespoon ful lard. Take one-half the 
meal and pour over it the boiling water, then 
add the other milk, the rest of the meal, and 
the eggs well beaten. Lastly add the lard 
(melted). Bake in a deep fireproof dish, that 
has been made hot and well greased. 

POTATO ROLLS 

(Weldon) 

One cup yeast, 1 cup flour, 1 cup mashed 
potatoes. Set these to rise. When light, add 
2 e gg s > I CU P sugar, -J cup lard, some salt. 
Make up stiff. Let stand until light. Roll 
out until •£ inch thick, then cut with round 
cutter. Butter and lap over. Let stand until 



96 Wei don 

very light. Bake in hot oven 10 minutes. 
These are the old Maryland potato rolls. 

SALLY LUNN 

(Weldon) 

One egg", 1 small cup sugar, creamed well 
together. Then stir well with a lump of but- 
ter the size of an egg, and beat all together, 
then add 1 cup sweet milk and stir well, then 
add 3^ cups of flour that has been sifted 3 
times and in which has been sifted 2 teaspoon- 
fuls baking powder; also add a pinch of salt. 
Mix all well together. Bake in a loaf cake. 
Try it with a broom straw to see when done. 

TIPSY PUDDING 

(Weldon) 

Take stale cake (fruit cake or any other), 
cut it in bits and lay it in the bottom of a glass 
dish. (Cake crumbs can also be utilized in 
this pudding.) Pour over the bits of cake \ 
pint wine, then make boiled custard and pour 
over this, then whip the whites of 2 eggs and 
2 tablespoonfuls sugar and put on top of cus- 



Wei don 97 

tard. Set it in the oven till it is light brown. 
Serve cold. 

tomato soup 

(Weldon) 

One quart tomatoes, i quart water, i pint 
milk. Season with pepper, salt and butter; I 
teaspoonful of soda. Put the water and toma- 
toes on and let boil, then strain through a 
sieve, then add the soda, milk, pepper, salt, 
and butter. Let all boil together. If you 
prefer it thinner than this makes it, add water 
to suit taste. 

• 

ICE CREAM CAKE 

{Weldon) 

Whites of 8 eggs, I scant cup of butter well 
creamed, 2 cups sugar, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 
cups flour, 1 cup cornstarch sifted together 12 
times, in which has been sifted 2 teaspoonfuls 
baking powder. Flavor with vanilla. Beat 
the butter and sugar together, add the milk, 
then add the flour and cornstarch and baking 
powder (sifted 12 times), then add the whites 
of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, then add the 



98 Wei don 

flavoring. Grease the pans well and flour them 
afterwards, to keep from sticking. 



ICING FOR CAKE 

Whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 4 
cups of pulverized sugar. Pour over the sugar 
1 small cup of boiling water and let it boil 
until clear and will candy in cold water. 
Don't let it get too stiff or it will not make 
good icing. When done pour over the frothed 
eggs the boiling syrup and beat until light. 
Add 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla and 1 teaspoonful 
of citric acid. Put between cakes and ice the 
top and sides with it. 

OLD MARYLAND APPLE TODDY 

(Weldon) 

About Thanksgiving Day take -J dozen 
large, smooth, and good cooking apples, and 
roast them until they burst open. While hot 
mash them — skin, seeds, and all — and pour 
on them -| gallon of good apple brandy. Add 
sugar and seal tight in a stone jar until 
Christmas Day. Weaken with water to taste. 



Weldon 99 

If the apples have not all been reduced to 
pulp, serve what is left of them with the toddy. 
As old Malachi said, " Take a little of de 
apple. Dat's whar de real spression ob de 
toddy is." 

SAND TARTS 

(Weldon) 

One pound sugar, 1 pound flour, yolks of 
5 eggs, 6 ounces butter, 2 tablespoonfuls thick 
milk, I teaspoonful soda. Roll thin, cut out. 
Beat the whites of 2 eggs and wash the tops 
of them with it. Sprinkle with cinnamon, 
granulated sugar, and chopped almonds. 

WOODBERRY CAKE 

(Weldon) 

(A great favorite with children) 
One cup sugar, 1 cup sweet milk, 1 pint 
flour, piece of butter size of an egg, 1 tea- 
spoonful baking powder mixed in the flour; 
flavor with 2 teaspoonfuls of ground cinna- 
mon. Bake in a large flat pan. 

uorc 



ioo Wei don 

CANTALOUPE PICKLE 

{Weldon) 

Pare the cantaloupes, cut a slit in the sides 
and remove the seeds. Put them in brine that 
will bear an egg. Let them remain 2 weeks 
or longer, then put them in cold water for 2 
days, changing - the water 2 or 3 times. Then 
wrap them in corn blades and put them in a 
preserving kettle, and to 1 gallon of water 
take a piece of alum the size of a hickory nut. 
Pour this over the cantaloupes and let them 
simmer not more than % hour, then put them 
in cold water for 2 or 3 hours, then press all 
the water from the fruit with a linen towel. 
Cut up some of the soft cantaloupes and put 
them with the filling which is made by adding 
mace, ginger, lemon rinds, and cloves. Boil the 
rind of 4 of 5 lemons before using it. When 
all is well mixed, fill the fruit. Put the filled 
fruit into a preserving kettle (after the canta- 
loupes have been tied well together so the 
filling can not come out), and boil them until 
tender in a syrup made out of sugar and vine- 
gar, 1 pound sugar and 1 pint vinegar to 1 



Weldon IOI 

pound fruit. If any of the seasoning is left 
put it in the syrup and boil with the pickles. 

VEAL TERRAPIN 

(Weldon) 

Boil thoroughly i\ pounds veal. When cold 
cut in small pieces. Put in a chafing dish a 
good-sized piece of butter. Rub the meat with 
a tablespoonful of butter, add, salt and pepper. 
3 or 4 cloves. Let boil about 15 minutes. 
Add wineglass of sherry wine and hard boiled 
eggs cut up. 

" The Colonel stopped, unlocked a closet in 
the sideboard, and produced a black bottle 
labeled in ink, ' Old Cherry Bounce, 1848.' " 
— " Colonel Carter of Cartersville." 

CHERRY BOUNCE 

{Weldon) 

Wash the cherries, put them in a porcelain 
kettle with enough water to cover them. Let 
them come to a boil, then strain cherries 
through a colander, then strain juice through 



102 Weldon 

a flannel cloth (white). Let it cool. Add 
half a gallon or more of French brandy to i 
gallon of cherry juice and 2 pounds of loaf 
sugar to 1 gallon of the mixture. Take a lit- 
tle of the bounce and boil the spices in it, using 
cinnamon, allspice, and a very few cloves, and 
add this to the whole. The spices are put in 
a little bag and boiled in this way. Add the 
sugar while the juice is hot, but the brandy is 
not added until it is cool. Then bottle and seal 
tight. 

BROWN BETTY 

{Weldon) 

One-half cup of milk (scant), 2 large cups 
of brown sugar. Boil 5 minutes, stirring 
briskly. When almost done stir in 1 cup of 
black walnut kernels or chopped almonds. Re- 
move from the fire and stir until the mixture 
grains or looks sugary. Pour in a well-but- 
tered pan to the depth of 1 inch. As the candy 
cools mark off in squares with a knife. Wal- 
nuts are better in it than almonds. 



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See how it spar - kles, This drink di - vine. 

" GlROFLE-GlROFLA 



TOASTS 

l drink it as the Fates ordain it. 

Come, fill it, and have done with rhymes ; 
Fill up the lonely glass and drain it 

In memory of dear old times." 

— William Makepeace Thackeray. 



" Fill yo' glasses, gentlemen, and drink to the health 
of that greatest of all blessings — a true Southern 
lady ! " — Colonel Carter, of Cartersville. 



TO CELIA 

Drink to me only with thine eyes, 

And I will pledge with mine ; 

Or leave a kiss but in the cup, 

And I'll not look for wine, 

The thirst that from the soul doth rise 

Doth ask a drink divine ; 

But might I of Jove's nectar sup, 

I would not change for thine." 

— Ben Jonson. 
103 



104 Toasts 

" Here's to the maiden of bashful fifteen ; 
Here's to the widow of fifty; 
Here's to the flaunting extravagant queen, 
And here's to the housewife that's thrifty. 
Let the toast pass, 
Drink to the lass, 
I'll warrant she'll prove 
An excuse for the glass." 

— Richard Brinsley Sheridan. 



TO WOMAN'S LOVE 

" To woman's love — to man's not akin, 
For her heart is a home, while his heart is an inn. 



I have met many, liked a few ; 
Loved but one — here's to you." 



Here's to those who love us, 
Not to those whom we love ; 
For those whom we love 
May not love us." 



Here's to a good girl — 

Not too good, for the good die young, 

And we don't like dead ones ! " 



Here's to the tongue of woman : it never wears out. 



" Here's to our wives, who fill our lives 
With little bees and honey; 
They break life's shocks, they mend our socks, 
But don't they spend our money ! " 



Toasts 105 

" Here's to the prettiest, 
Here's to the wittiest, 
Here's the truest of all who are true; 
Here's to the neatest one, 
Here's to the sweetest one, 
Here's to them all in one— here's to you ! " 

Here's to our wives and sweethearts ! 
May our sweethearts become our wives, 
And our wives ever remain our sweethearts." 



KENTUCKY 

" Here's to old Kentucky — 
The place where I was born — 
Where the corn is full of " kernals 
And the " Colonels " full of corn." 



WOMEN 

" Here's to the women — God bless 'em, _ ^ 

You can't live with 'em and you can't live without em. 

DAME FORTUNE 

"Here's to Dame Fortune: May you never meet 
her daughter — Misfortune." 

TO A CHAPERON. 

" Here's to the chaperon, 
May she learn from Cupid 
Just enough blindness 
To be sweetly stupid." 

— Oliver Hereford. 



106 Toasts 

A STIRRUP CUP 

TO 

" MERRYLEGS " 

" Here's to one, though ripe in years, 

Brought many pleasures, never tears. 

His virtues such that were they named, 

Men, having less, might feel ashamed. 

Steady — tried and trustful, true, 

Willing — honest — noble, too. 

From 'ole Kentucky's' border line 

Where Girls and Horses both are fine. 

Here's to him, and when he dies 

May he, like Pegasus, arise. 

May clover fields above be no 

Whit less sweeter than below. 

May he stand 

Beyond the stars 

And greet us from 

God's meadow bars. 

Here's to Merrylegs, a friend 

Whose heart is faithful to the end." 

— Isabel S. Mason. 



" I fill this cup to one made up 
Of loveliness alone, 
A woman, of her gentle sex 
The seeming paragon — 

Her health ! and would on earth there stood 
Some more of such a frame, 
That life might be all poetry, 
And weariness a name." 

— Edward Coate Pinkney. 



Toasts 107 

TO OUR MOTHERS 

We have toasted our sweethearts, 

Our friends, and our wives ; 
We have toasted each other, 

Wishing all merry lives. 
Don't frown when I tell you 

This toast beats all others, 
But drink one more toast, boys — 

A toast to— Our Mothers ! " 



UEC I9 190f 



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